Harvest is over and our weather wishing has changed accordingly. During harvest, the last thing we want is rain. Rain during harvest makes a mess, dilutes the flavors and causes the growth of various molds, including botrytis. We were blessed with a beautiful dry harvest this year. Now we want rain.
Long range weather forecasting has improved dramatically since I started farming full time about 25 years ago. Much of the focus of the long range winter forecast is directed toward determining whether we have the formation of El Niño or La Niña conditions. There is a great explanation of these phenomena on Wikipedia. In a nutshell, El Niño refers to warming of the equatorial ocean water off of South America which accompanies high air surface pressure in the western Pacific and which typically results in more rainfall on the Central Coast of California. La Niña refers to cooler ocean water and dryer conditions in this area.
So what do we have in store for the winter of 2013/2014? According to an article on GRIST, the current condition is stuck somewhere between the extremes of El Niño and La Niña, which writer John Upton refers to as “La Nada”. The upshot is that it will be harder for forecasters to predict what kind of weather to expect this winter. What we do know now is that it’s dry. The little bit of rain that was predicted for this week was dialed back. This makes it easier for us to work in the field, to clean up our fields after harvest, to plant cover crops and vegetables, but dry isn’t good for us in the long term. Please join me in praying for rain—ideally about 25 inches, about 1 inch at a time, every 2 weeks between now and April 15. Cheers!
|The Rincon Adobe photo taken with green hills after rain in prior years.|
|The Rincon Adobe with brown hills because of the lack of rain.|
My name is Nicole Morris and I am the cellar assistant here at Talley Vineyards. As you may have heard, 2013 was a plentiful and intense harvest. Harvest 2013 was my seventh in the wine industry. As much fun as it was, I am glad it is over.
Now that we have time to sit back and reflect on the long hours and craziness we have just endured, there are still many winery tasks that need to be accomplished. Currently we have over twenty fermenters that are in the late stages of fermentation. They are mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, and Syrah. Towards the end of harvest, the cooler temperatures in the cellar contribute to a slower fermentation time. Most of these reds varietals, which are from the Paso Robles area, will be finished fermenting and pressed off by next week.
Another task we are working on is the consolidation of the chardonnay barrels. Chardonnay that is fermented in barrels is initially filled only three-fourths full. The head space is left for the fizzle and foam of fermentation. So a 60 gallon barrel is only filled with chardonnay to 45 gallons. A barrel filled to the top would overflow leaving the liquid gold, as we call the foam, all over the barrel room floor. Still, some barrels do end up overflowing during fermentation. Once the fermentation is complete the barrels are consolidated, filled and topped off. They will now go through secondary fermentation and age in the cellar.
Eventually, all barrels in the barrel room will be topped off and stored. From here on out, barrel topping will happen about once a month because about a half a gallon of wine evaporates from a barrel each month. This head space from evaporation puts wine in a more vulnerable state for spoilage organisms to take over. Topping the barrels prevents this from happening.
The intensity of harvest is coming to an end and we are being rewarded by the beautiful autumn colors in the vineyard. Even though we are we are still keeping busy with these “end of harvest” activities, one cannot help but feel accomplished and surprised that yet another harvest has passed. We here at Talley Vineyards are very excited to see the results of the 2013 harvest, and even more excited about having a whole weekend off.
Last March Andy McDaniel, our then Guest Services Coordinator, contributed a blog entry entitled Playing in the Dirt. In that blog Andy described the complicated logistics of collecting soil samples from our various vineyards in the Arroyo Grande and Edna Valleys. He also shared the reason behind this dirty effort - the creation of a soil sample display for our tasting room.
The end result of all that digging can now be viewed by tasting room visitors. At first glance it may appear that we’ve simply filled seven large cylinders with dirt. But take a closer look and I think you will agree that it is much more than that. To even my untrained eye, it is remarkable to see the variation in color, texture and structure of the soils displayed. These differences are not just evident when comparing the different vineyards, but exist even within the layers of a single vineyard site. Seeing the uniqueness of the soils, I can’t help but think how that is all a part of what makes each of our wines so distinctive. It makes it easy to embrace the concept of terrior, that sense of place, and to realize how Talley Vineyards wines are truly a reflection of the vineyard site they originate from.
Next time you visit our tasting room, I encourage you to spend some time looking at each of the soil samples, as well as the beautiful vineyard photographs alongside them. Enjoy your wine tasting, pay special attention to the vineyard source for each wine you try and think about the diversity of the soil sample displays. I believe there is a lot to learn from those cylinders of dirt!
It’s 9:30am on Thursday, October 24th and we just picked our last block of grapes. This concludes the 2013 harvest at Talley that began on August 30th. Harvest, harvest, harvest. I heard that word so much the month before we picked our first grapes that I’d find myself harvesting in my dreams. I was hired in July as the Harvest Intern, assisting Travis Monk, the Vineyard Manager at Talley Vineyards. Everything that I worked on prior to harvest led to this almost mythical happening in the vineyard world known as The Harvest. You see, I came from a different world of fruit and vegetable production and although I had participated in many harvests, none of them ever began with this much anticipation. I thought, “How hard can it be?” Ha! What a naïve harvest intern! There are reasons for the anticipation and there are many reasons why vineyard harvests are different. I wish I could articulate on these many reasons but my mind is recovering from the past 7+ weeks. So instead, how about I recap some of the good and the ugly from my first harvest at Talley Vineyards?
It all started by agreeing to shave my beard. Eric Johnson, the winemaker, and Travis decided to incorporate the tradition of harvest beards, which is basically giving oneself a clean shave to start harvest and then not shaving for the duration. It had been some time since I last rocked the clean shaven look and I didn’t recognize the baby face under the whiskers, nor did my wife or our one-year old son. So the next morning we started our first pick at 5:30 in the morning and I felt the cold air on my face for the first time in a long time. The first pick was done in a few hours and I was still wondering why all the fuss about harvest.
Well, the next week the dial was turned up and we found ourselves in full-go harvest. Starting at 5:33 am seemed like a long-gone dream as the start times went from 4:30 to 3:30 to 2:30 to 1:30 am in the morning, and finally to 10 pm at night. The nights became a blur but the adrenaline kept us going and the caffeine kept us focused. There were some very cold nights out in Oliver’s Vineyard and nights like the one when we picked Rosemary’s Block 7 with the Harvest Moon and warm air abound. Harvest became an endless rotation of bins and harvest trailers. It was spending many hours with our awesome crew, learning new words in Spanish, and making them laugh at my bad Spanish. It was getting to the coffee before the production crew showed up and hoping there might be one frozen breakfast sandwich left. It was driving to work on empty roads at night and watching little towns pop up as we raised our lights and began picking grapes. There were lots of frozen meals eaten, washed down with Emergen-C and Zicam. Then there were those beautiful fall sun rises that came like a paycheck for those cold hours working through the night.
My first harvest at Talley Vineyards was hard but very rewarding. I learned a ton from Travis and our crew. As difficult as it was at times, I always felt a part of the team here at Talley and that made it all much easier. I’m happy that it’s over and that I’m able to catch up on some sleep and spend time with my family. However, it was a great experience that I hope I’m a part of for years to come. Oh, and my beard grew back and my kid recognizes me again.
These bells have just been washed and about to be sorted by size and grade.
Visitors to the winery are often surprised at the diversity of crops they see growing in the fields adjacent to the Rincon Vineyard. In fact, our family farming heritage stretches back 65 years to 1948 when my grandfather began growing vegetables here in the Arroyo Grande Valley. That tradition continues to this day, and just as fall is our peak harvest period for wine grapes, so too is it for our vegetable production. The single biggest crop that we grow at Talley Farms is bell peppers, and the entire crop is harvested between early August and mid-November. Just as in our vineyards, we’ve enjoyed a bumper crop of bell peppers, with perhaps the best yields in our history. This is attributable to near perfect growing conditions as well as continuous improvement and refinement of our growing practices under the leadership of my cousin, Ryan Talley, who oversees our vegetable farming operations.
In addition to bell peppers, we grow about 20 different kinds of fruits and vegetables, many of which we grow exclusively for Talley Farms Fresh Harvest, www.talleyfarmsfreshharvest.com, our weekly harvest box program. Because of the extremely moderate climate of the Arroyo Grande Valley, it is one of the few places in the world where vegetables can be grown year round, though the selection varies with the season. Right now we are producing beautiful tomatoes, basil, squash, pasillas, jalapenos, beans, lettuce and padron peppers. In the winter, we focus on leeks, beets, radishes and Brussels sprouts. We grow items like green onions, carrots, spinach, cilantro, lemons, avocados and nappa cabbage year round.
One of my favorite seasonal projects is the annual pumpkin patch that we grow in conjunction with Branch Elementary School. This project was conceived by my dad as a fundraiser for the school almost 15 years ago when my daughters attended Branch. Now Ryan (who currently has two daughters at the school) oversees the project. This is a great local fundraiser and a great place for locals to get pumpkins and decorative gourds for the autumn season. They are available for purchase every day in the Tasting Room, or you can come out on the weekend and pick your own. Enjoy the bounty of the season!
It’s my first Harvest here at Talley and I could not be more excited! I started as a part-time Tasting Associate in late November of 2012 and was just recently promoted to Tasting Room Assistant Manager and Event Coordinator. To say it’s been a whirlwind year for me adjusting to a new career and life here on the Central California Coast is an understatement. By now I’ve experienced every season and worked at every party and event here at Talley, waiting all the while with great anticipation for the biggest one of them all; Harvest. The exhilarating buzz of both the copious amounts of bees and staff activity around the winery and cellar right now is palpable. As I come and go from the Tasting Room each day, I find myself coming in a little early just to see what the production crew is up to as they fly past in forklifts to and from the crush pad, the fermenters and the many barrels being filled. It’s endlessly fascinating and the education I’m receiving just walking past the winery each day is priceless.
Working here at Talley also means I was lucky enough to be able to spend a day with our winemaker Eric Johnson, the Production Staff and Harvest Interns who were kind enough to show me the ins and outs of the Burgundian winemaking techniques that are practiced here at Talley. That means up and at ‘em at 4am to be here by 5am when the grapes arrive after being hand-harvested in the wee morning hours by our vineyard crews. I was then put to work in the very sticky business of grape sorting, the back-breaking task of punch downs and the clean-up process of all the equipment. I also learned about the relentless lab work of monitoring the fruit. Although I’d heard plenty of stories of what the harvest season entails from the production staff throughout the past year, it’s not until you spend a day in their rubber boots do you fully understand the truly exhaustive nature of Harvest. Sunburned faces, calloused hands and grape-splattered clothes are practically de rigueur. I was utmost impressed by the crew’s ability to complete these grueling, repetitive tasks while somehow maintaining their cool and sense of humor amidst the constant cyclone of yellow jackets surrounding their every move. Bee stings are an unfortunate part of the job and the staff think nothing of working right through the pain of the red, swollen stings, as well as a fuzzy Benadryl induced haze. Punch downs are their own form of a CrossFit workout and should be considered nothing less. That said, as arduous as breaking through some of the thick grape skin caps can be, once you do and the magenta foam comes burbling up as it releases the carbon dioxide, it’s also incredibly gratifying work. Not to mention you feel a part of the history and time-honored tradition of participating in the process of making handcrafted wine. Which is - to put it in layman’s terms - as legit as it gets. Then again I’ve only done one punch down and it took me about two hours to get through all the fermenters. Punch downs happen three times a day here. You do the math.
The next day, as I slept in until the luxurious hour of 8am with every muscle aching, I couldn’t help thinking that I’m pretty sure I don’t have what it takes to actually work a harvest. Our vineyard and harvest staff does this toil seven days a week for up to two months straight. Uff da! (as my Minnesota grandparents would say). The next time I’m sweating in the hot sun while setting up a couple of dozen tables and chairs for an event, I’ll count my blessings I have it so easy.
As Harvest continues throughout October, I find myself already looking forward to the future release of these 2013 Pinot Noir’s that I helped in some tiny aspect on their way to the bottle. It goes without saying that I’m already a big fan of Talley wines, but from now when I take a sip I’ll be thinking about how much I admire the effort and talent of the Talley staff who make it possible.
After I was asked to write this week’s blog, I decided to look back through the past few entries and remind myself of the topics that have been recently covered. It turns out it has been one topic and one topic only – harvest. When I realized our weekly blogs had become so focused, two questions immediately came to mind.
First of all, I wondered, “Is harvest as fascinating to our readers as we seem to believe?” This question was fairly easy to answer and it turns out our readers do find the subject quite fascinating. A quick check of the numbers confirmed that each week our blog readers come back to get the latest harvest news.
|Scout & Buster|
The second question that popped into my mind wasn’t so simple to answer. One blog after another recounted my colleagues’ hard work in making harvest successful and I couldn’t help but think, “What is my contribution to harvest?” Nothing came to mind. Other than offering sympathetic looks, I don’t have a whole lot I can do to support our vineyard and cellar crews. But desperately wanting to believe I am important to the process, I thought on until it occurred to me – my harvest contribution goes to the dogs. Literally.
When our winemaker Eric Johnson and I ended up with dogs that are littermates, neither of us thought much of it. I assumed my dog and I would go our way and Eric and his dog would go theirs. But it turns out our dogs are more than brother and sister, they are also best friends. So Eric and I are no longer just colleagues, we are the owners of the world’s greatest dogs, siblings and best buddies, Scout and Buster. And I’ve decided that when Buster virtually moves in with me and Scout for the harvest season, that is me making my important contribution to harvest. The winemaker may be working 7 days a week, arriving at the winery hours before sun-up, with critical decisions on his mind, but at least he doesn’t have to worry about his dog.
A few years from now, while enjoying some 2013 Talley Vineyards wine, I will look back on this harvest and convince myself I made sacrifices that helped make it a good one. I had to deal with two crazy dogs, they may have chewed up furniture, chased my neighbor’s cat, gotten into the trash, but these are necessary inconveniences in my efforts to support harvest 2013.
|"Is harvest over yet?"|
Harvest began almost a month ago on August 30, which was a very typical start date for us. Relative to the past three years, the difference has been in the pace of harvest since the start, which has been fast. It kicked off with a warm period over Labor Day weekend and for the first week of September which ripened just about all of the chardonnay and pinot noir in Rosemary’s Vineyard. Things cooled dramatically after that, which slowed everything down. In fact some sugar levels actually went down, implying that the grapes were rehydrating. Another warming trend coincided with the Harvest Moon, which quickened our pace again. At this point, we are about 65% done with our harvest in the Arroyo Grande and Edna Valleys and anticipate being just about complete by October 10. So far all of the lots of pinot noir we’ve pressed off have had good clean flavors and elegant texture, similar to 2012.
Speaking of the Harvest Moon, check out this video we shot on September 19. It shows every step in our process of producing pinot noir from night harvest in the early morning, through destemming, pressing and finishing with the last punch downs of the day. I also have a short video with Eric Johnson discussing night harvest at Rosemary’s Vineyard. Enjoy!
I am going to have to ask you all to forgive my spelling this week, as my simple grammar skills aren’t too sharp during the busy harvest season. Harvest is probably the busiest time of year for both winery and vineyard employees, but here on the central coast harvesting is typically done at night. For us here at Talley, that typically means starting between 2:00am and 4:00am depending on the amount of grapes to pick. A busy harvesting day can typically last for about an eight hour shift and consist of 10-40 tons of grapes depending on the variety.
The reason we are harvesting at night is driven by quality. Temperature is the key here. With daytime temperatures in the upper 70’s to low 80’s (ideally!!!), there is a lot going on inside the grape cluster itself. Higher temperatures typically lead to more maturation which translates to quicker ripening. By picking at night, when the temperatures are typically in the 50’s, sugar levels remain more stable. The grape clusters themselves are also a little more firm at lower temperatures which keeps them from breaking open while we are picking. Both of these factors give the winery a little more control of the grapes being harvested and help them to avoid any surprises down the road with fermentation. Night harvesting is also beneficial for the harvesting crews. Grape harvesting is pretty labor intensive and very fast paced, so lower temperatures allow for longer hours of picking and a more comfortable environment to be working in. The bees don’t come out until mid morning either… a huge benefit!
So obviously it’s dark at night, how the heck do we pull this off? The full moon is key….
Just kidding.Call it superstition, but here at Talley we do have one block that we like to pick during the full moon every year. In the picture to the left, you can see the moon dropping behind the hills overlooking Rosemary’s pinot noir. For every other night we depend on diesel generator of lights that we tow behind our tractors. With these lights, we are able to light up the vineyard rows just like it is daytime. Our harvesters also wear headlamps to light up any blind spots that may exist. We typically pick four rows at a time per crew of 8 employees. Each harvester carries a yellow picking bin, “FYB” for those that work in the industry (…use your imagination) that they harvest directly into. These bins can hold up to about 40 pounds of grapes, and are then emptied into a larger macro bin towed behind our harvest tractor. Once the bins on the trailer are full, they’re off to the winery for processing.
Harvest here at Talley began this year on August 30, and will most likely end sometime in mid October with the last of our chardonnay being picked. We have currently picked about 60% of our total pinot noir and about 15% of our chardonnay. There’s still a lot of busy nights ahead of us, that’s for sure, but so far so good.
I participated in my first official harvest at Talley in 1994 (has it been that long?), the year I started here as the Tasting Room Manager in the old adobe. During that harvest we had an afternoon when it started raining and Brian called every employee out to the Rincon Vineyard to help pick some chardonnay so that it wouldn’t rot. I remember starting at the top of a row of vines, well above the ladies vineyard crew, more often cutting my fingers than actually cutting off bunches of grapes, only to be passed up by the crew who managed to finish 30 vines before I even finished my one. A very humbling experience, but a fond memory being part of that first harvest and it gave me a very early appreciation of the expertise of the folks that tend the vines on a daily and yearly basis. That was the same harvest that we had the intern Bridget, from Switzerland, who told us that she “came from a willage of vitches” and that she was a “good vitch”. After spending time with her, I did not doubt her witch skills, as she said she had put an attraction charm on herself and literally everywhere we went, men would just walk up to her and start talking even if she was already talking to another guy. Back then our full time winery crew consisted of me, Brian, Johnine, Steve Rasmussen, Jose Cuevas and Nacho Zarate. Now we are up to about 15 full time staff.
I’ve always enjoyed harvest and try and help out with punch downs whenever I get a chance. It’s an opportunity for me to get away from 8 hours at a computer and do some physical labor, all while helping out the crew who are usually exhausted and tired and consider punch downs like necessary homework. Harvest, for me, is also a way to stamp a memory on the passing of each year, given that we live on the Central Coast and seasons don’t really change. 1994, my first harvest, was the year of rain; 1995 was the harvest I was pregnant with my first child; 2005 was the year we had an abundance of crop and made an ice wine since we had to store chardonnay grapes at Glacier Ice Co. until some tanks became available. The 2010 harvest holds two opposing feeling for me...my deepest sorrow and one of my greatest joys. That was the harvest when my mom passed away after struggling with MS for years and also the harvest of the Giant’s first World Series in San Francisco, something I had waited my whole life to experience
I also mark and remember each harvest by the arrival of the interns. The bright eyed Cal Poly kids doing their required internship or the ones from New Zealand , France or Chile. They arrive energetic and excited and full of romance about “making wine”. They hit the wall about half way through, with lack of sleep and frustration from constantly cleaning bins, before regaining the energy of a job well done when the last load is pressed off and put to bed. The new crop of interns this year are Devon, Ryan and Sandy, and I know I’ll see them go through the same ups and downs as the Jackson’s, Annabell’s and Kelsey’s before them.
I will forever remember this 2013 harvest as the one I sent my first kid off to college. We’ll be taking her to UC Davis in 2 days and hopefully she will find her passion in whatever field she chooses, like I did with wine. At the time of her college graduation, I’ll open a bottle of the 2013 Rosemary’s Pinot and toast to her future. One that I hope will include a job that she can stay at for 20 years plus and look back on with great fondness over the people she’s met and experiences she’s had along the way.